Twice a week I drive up to Gilleleje before it is light. Two boats, one family, and the same crates on the quay since my first winter.
I never know what I am buying until I get there. Some mornings it is plaice and cod, some mornings fjord shrimp, and once it was a single enormous turbot that fed the whole back room.
Taking what comes
We write the fish on the menu after I come back, not before. It means the menu changes most days, and it means nothing is caught to order and thrown away.
The fish is on the fire by six in the evening. That is the whole secret.
