In the middle of April the beech woods north of the city turn green from the ground up. The ramsons come first, before the leaves on the trees.
We go out on a Monday when the restaurant is closed, with willow baskets and wet boots. We pick a leaf or two from each plant and never pull the bulbs, so they come back next year.
In the bread
I fold chopped ramsons into the sourdough for the first two weeks of the season. The rest goes into butter, oil and a green sauce for the fish. By May it is over, and we wait for elderflower.
